Min Ga La Baa from Myanmar -- Part I

Location: Myanmar (Burma)
Date: July 3, 2000

Greetings from Bangkok (again!). We are back from three weeks in the forgotten country. Sorry we have alarmed a few people by not responding to emails, but Internet is not available in Myanmar. The purpose of this email is twofold; to let you know what we experienced and to inform you of what's going on politically and socially.

Myanmar, or Burma as it was known until 1988, was a British colony until Independence was gained in 1948. Over the next 4 decades the country saw several coups, takeovers and failed economic policies that continued to lower the moral of the people. In 1988, the people had had enough and protested the government and its policies. Free elections were planned for 1989, but the victorious Democratic Party, lead by Aung San Suu Kyi (a woman), was never allowed to take office. Aung San Suu Kyi, with others, was placed under house arrest, while the military government never gave up their power.

Our first impression of Myanmar was of its backwards bureaucracy. All foreigners are required to exchange $300 US dollars for the governments FEC (Foreign Exchange certificates). We were able to change $250 combined by giving a gift ($5 bribe) to the friendly government employed woman at the counter. One of our main goals while traveling here was to give as little as possible to the government, a small victory.

On the way into Yangoon, we passed several political billboards (in English) outlining the government's anti-capitalist strategies for the nation. Political propaganda. What a joke in a country were people make an average of $6/month, working 2 jobs.

Walking around town, we were pointed at, receive many giggles, and shouts of "hello", "goodbye", and "Where you go?" (this continued for the duration of our visit, we never got used to being celebrities). It was very different from any other place we've visited thus far. We didn't see another foreigner for over 2 days (we finally ran into 3 at the tourist market). Tourism is slow in Myanmar, very slow.

In Yangoon, the capital, we visited one of the forgotten "wonders of the world", Shwedagon Pagoda, a religious site over 1000 years old. Very impressive and of great importance in the 95% Buddhist populated country. The pagoda contains 8 hairs of "Buddha". The religion is so complex, our guided tour lasted 3 hours and left us even more confused. I guess people study the religion for years, Dan still don't know all the answers. All Linda wanted to know was why 108 images are imprinted on the bottom of Buddha's feet. Does anyone know?

Westernization is scarce. 95% of the men wear the traditional longyis, sarong like skirts, Mike found one long enough for himself, but was too embarrassed to wear his. Coca Cola, McDonald's, and Magnum bars don't exist. Though you can get Coca Cola and M&Ms at a few western type stores (over the black market, thru Thailand, at 3 times the Thai price). It was a nice relief not to read advertisements of US products, a first, instead we saw signs that read, "Please Provide necessary assistance to the International Traveler". We liked that!

Burmese people did provide a lot of assistance. They are the friendliest overall population we've encountered on our 1 year adventure. They smile constantly, want to talk with you and practice their English, want to pay for your meal and show you their country. They are dirt poor, yet are very content with what they have. Teachers make $3 a month, teaching 60 children sitting on wooden benches, no books, or posters on the walls. Yet, they have real energy and are determined to educate their pupils.

Unfortunately the Universities were closed by the government in 1996, and a few actually opened last week offering correspondence courses and classes for Military families. Sadly this undervalued population is without access to higher education. Many bright 20 something's seem determined to make a difference in their lives and seek out other educational opportunities, learning English and even getting into the tourist trade. We met many and made some great friendships. One 20 year old, Khaing Zin (pronounced "Cousin") from the Inle Lake area, can't continue her higher education, but hopes to return to school to become a teacher. But, while she waits, she works 2 jobs to provide for her large family. She sorts tomatoes for 8 hours, making 60 cents a day and still went out of her way to provide a gourmet feast for us one evening. It was very depressing, but her strong will is incredible. It is so unfair that her and many others can't contribute and better the country, because good jobs don't exist. And since Universities are closed, betterment thru learning is unavailable. Can you imagine no higher education being available in the US?

Well, as you can tell there is a lot we want to share with you about Myanmar. It is a country like no other we've seen and many things we saw and heard are unimaginable to our privileged western upbringing. One thing we know more than ever, is how lucky we are to be Americans, with the opportunities and basic rights we possess.

More about Myanmar soon. We will provide details about our bus accidents, don't worry mom, no injuries. We travel north thru Thailand tomorrow!

Love and miss you all,

Linda and Mike

Min ga la baa from Myanmar -- Part II

Read More of Mike and Linda's Adventures