Min ga la baa from Myanmar -- Part II

Location: Myanmar (Burma)
Date: July 5, 2000

Greetings from Ayuthaya, the capital city of Thailand before the Burmese sacked the city in the 17th century. It's a good that sort of thing doesn't happen anymore. We just wanted to send part two of our experiences in Myanmar because we felt that one e-mail just wouldn't do it justice (plus we didn't want you to fall asleep). We think the most important part of this wonderful country was the people that we met along the way. They really made our short stay a great experience.

Although we didn't plan on it, we managed to do some trekking in Kelaw. This small town is the trekking Mecca of Myanmar. Most people come here to take an overnight trip into the outlying villages. Our guide was Mr. Chain, a former school teacher that decided to take up guiding when trekking became a more lucrative occupation (he makes $5 per person per day). We visited four different ethnic groups during our trek. Their lives seem to evolve around the Kelaw Market Day held every Monday. The children were so amazing with their beautiful, dirt smeared faces and constant "hello, bye-bye" everywhere we went. We were really popular because we handed out balloons to all the kids. Some kids really got scared when we approached them because we are just so much larger than the average Burmese person. You really do feel like a celebrity with the constant giggling and open-mouthed stares. These people are so poor but are truly happy. They live in longhouses that accommodate 8 families totaling 100 people. Birth control is not used in conversations here. They couldn't understand why we didn't have any children since we we had been married for a year already.

Last e-mail we promised that we would tell you about our "accident". It just so happens that after leaving Kelaw, we got into a bit of trouble. Our bus was weaving it's way down this crazy mountain road that caused most of the passengers to be sick. Now We know why there were plastic bags at every seat. We pulled over to the side to let a truck pass us coming in the other direction and WHAM!!!, our sides collided. The drivers got out to "discuss" the accident and I really felt like they would be going to blows at any moment. They argued for the better part of an hour in Burmese you could tell what was being said. Our driver wanted to be compensated for his damaged bus and was going to head back to Kelaw to get his money. We, of course, were not ready to make take the "throwup express" back and got off right at that spot (we did manage to get all of money back). All of the locals just sat there resigned to the fact that they had to go back. They are such patient people and seem to never show emotion (except when someone wrecks their bus).

We made it to Mandalay with really no more problems other than sore feet for standing up for two hours on a cramped bus (It's all a part of the experience Russ). We spent my 28th birthday washing clothes and seeing a wonderful sunset from the top of Mandalay Hill. Mandalay is Myanmar's second largest city and home to the Pwe Comedy Troupe known as the Moustache Brothers. We met the leader of the group, Lu Maw, whose brother and cousin are in prison (for 7 years) for telling jokes about the government during a 1996 event. Since then, the government has banned his group from doing their traveling show that would sometimes last all night long until the morning. It was mind-blowing to sit and listen to this man talk about his country and the things the government have been doing since they came into power. After 2 hours of talking with him, his family provided us with a one hour show of traditional Burmese dancing in full makeup and costumes while he provided the jokes (all of them about the gov't). All for the $6. They poured their hearts out to us through their dancing. It's amazing to see these men and women move with such agility and grace for their advanced ages (48-60 years old).

We also managed to fit some sightseeing of the Ancient cities in. Our guide was Mr. Moustache, a trishaw driver (3 wheeled bicycle). He was a little rusty with the facts about each place but he got us into some places for free (he knew the back ways in). The gov't charges really high entrance fees for foreigners ($4-$10) and keep raising the prices anytime people complain. It's sad because the more the prices go up, the less people will want to go to these places. That means less work for guides like Mr. Moustache.

Our final destination was the ancient city of Bagan. There are about 5,000 pagodas and temples across the countryside. We spent two days cycling around and taking photos. Most of the temples are from the 13-15th centuries and have beautiful murals painted on the inside walls. The only bummer about Bagan is that you must pay $10 each to enter and of course this fee goes right to their gov't. We just hope that they use some of the money for the upkeep of the sites. At sunset you can scale some of the higher temples and watch the sun set over the Irawaddy River. It really is a magical place.

Well, we have to get going. We hope that you have a better understanding of this wonderful country and the people that we met. Let us know if you ever plan on visiting and we can get you set up with the goods. Until then, keep the updates coming. We will be home on Sept 21.

Love,

Mike and Linda

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