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Tour Du Monde, Update from Dennis:
From the Gutter to a "Skinny Dip "
Date:
December 5, 2001
Hello !
I hope this message finds you all well. I know that I
just e-mailed you a few days ago but we had such an
interesting day on the 3rd that I wanted to share it
with you.
First a strange fact. I have used insect repellent 5
times on my adventure. Three of these time were in a
hotel room.
Ok. Back to the 3rd.
We packed and left our hotel room in Tehuantepec. When
walked out in the courtyard of our hotel we noticed a
strong wind straining the tree overhead. As we rode
out of town the wind alternated from a headwind to a
crosswind. Combined with the passing trucks and buses
we were either being blown off the road or sucked into
traffic. I lost my " religion " many times during the
30km to the next town. Scott was blown off the road .
He dealt with it in a unique style. Since the grassy
spot he had landed on was comfortable he just laid
along side the road. Soon two Mexicans appeared. They
helped him up . Asked if he was Ok and sent him on his
way. It is in times of crisis that I usually suggest
that we eat. We found a restaraunt where a local bus
driver informed us that the wind continues to get
worse to the south. The next town of La Ventosa is
famous for trucks being blown off the road by the
fierce northerly winds that blow between December and
May. He explained that the isthmus of Mexico is
narrowest here and that there are no mountains to
block the wind. At his suggestion we walked to the bus
station to buy two tickets inland to the town of San
Cristobol de las Casas.
I was second in line to purchase our tickets when
Scott tapped me on the shoulder. We walked outside
where I met Najele ( sp ?) We found out later that
Najele's friend Paco encouraged her to take the
opportunity to practise her English on us. She did
this by offering to show us Juchican and the
surrounding area. We climbed on our bikes and followed
her to her friend Anita's house where we stashed out
bikes. Najele and Anita skipped out on work and drove
us to Ojos de Agua where we went swimming and they
bought us an early dinner. We then toured Najele's
home town of Ixtepec and returned to Juchican. After
being escorted on foot through Juchican we meet Paco
and Raphael. They treated us to ganachas which is the
local version of tacos. We then loaded up Paco's van
and drove back up to Ojos de Agua for a midnight swim.
The spring fed pool glowed in the moonlight. I admit
to moment of doubt. What if our new friends were to
leave us at this point ? We would have not money,
clothing or the slightest idea of how to get back to
the bus station. I regretted doubting our new friends.
At not time had they shown us anything but kindness.
After spending the night at Anita's parents house we
were treated as honored guests the next morning with
coffee and sweets. We arrived back at the bus station
at 3pm for our trip to San Cristobol.
All that was asked for in return for this amazing
hospitality was the promise of the same kindness if
any of our new friends found themselves in our
hometown. This all happened when Scott and I had just
resigned ourselves to just get out of Mexico.I am left
with a lingering thought of why this happened. If any
component of the circumstances were removed none of
this would have occurred. It would have been a day for
us just like any other. I also feel selfish for having
never shown this level of kindness to a stranger at
home.
I am writing form San Cristobol de las Casas. We
arrived at midnight in this gorgeous colonial town. It
is located in the mountains east of the city Tuxtla
Gutierrez. The weather is cool and crisp and there is
no wind. It is hard for me to imagine this quiet
inviting town was occupied by the Zapatistas ( sp ?)
rebels in 1994. At the time they were in open
rebellion against the Mexican government. From here we
are only two riding days from Guatemala and one week
from the city of Antigua. It is here that we again
have the choice of remaining in the mountains or
following the coast. So we now say a fond goodbye to
Mexico and prepare for 5 border crossings in the next
month.
I miss you all.
Love ,
Dennis
Click here to read more about Scott and Dennis' Tour du Monde.
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