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Date: May 16, 2004
Africa is turning out to be a great decision, but
first I had to leave Nairobi.
The Mombassa Highway was hell on earth: I was riding
the dirt shoulder, weaving down the smooth footpath, around giant,
mud-filled craters from the rains, between rocks, up the lip onto
the warped road and, when trucks passed, down again. I had one minor
incident with a giant soldier swinging his AK-47 in my direction,
"Why do you defy my orders," he said as I attempted riding
away from him thinking, "Who the hell are you?" He interrogated
me, presumably thinking I was a terrorist. It wasn’t going
very well -- He said, “I like your sunnies.” I said.
“They’re broken. You don’t want these.”
-- until I told him in polite words that I was bicycling to Cape
Town and that I wasn't his problem. He laughed at this, "Woo.
Tch. Tch. Tch," Africans makes some strange noises when they
are impressed. "You are very strong." Everyone says this.
Another giant fancied himself an amateur boxer shadow boxed with
me to impress his friends. But he said, "You are too strong
to fight." People don't realize I am too tired to even lift
my machete above my shoulder and besides it so dull it is more functional
as a club.
(Blackout. Lucky they have backup generators. This
surprises me: Africa is really backwards. Still I have had to wait
half a day for the internet connection to be restored. I am having
many problems with money, food and water. I don’t understand
why Africa is so uncivilized. There are more missionaries, volunteer
teachers and peace workers here than anywhere I’ve seen. Civilization
or modern life is not necessarily an improvement but it is here
and people must adapt. For instance, traditional family farms can’t
produce enough food to feed the growing population without sprawling
into the few wild areas left. I can say with some authority that
the number one problem in the world is overpopulation. Perhaps the
root cause of this is lack of education.) Once, I made my turn to
Tanzania the traffic disappeared and the first time I raised my
eyes from the road and took a breath of clean air I am surrounded
by zebras, impalas and wildebeests grazing amongst herds of cows
and goats. The acacia trees and grasses were green and plump from
the rains and the hills were frosted with big white flowers. I was
traveling through Maasai country. This is one of the few tribes
in Africa that still retain their traditional life style. I could
spot their egg heads and flowing red and orange robes dotting the
countryside. Up close they are decorated in glass beads made into
circlets of rainbows. Their earlobes have been punched and stretched
out so that I could easily pass my coffee cup through them. Sometimes,
due to the wind I theorize, they loop it on the cartilage of the
remaining ear.
The Maasai huts are hidden far away from the road
down rust-colored dirt paths. They are content to earn a living
off the land instead of the passing vehicles. This is unique and
it is wonderful to bicycle through the wilderness and hear the birdsong
and to spot the ostriches grazing. I even had enough peace to contemplate
life. I upgraded myself from a pessimist to a cynic. I have faith
that people are fundamentally good and the Kenyans, if I may lump
them together as did the Brits, are no exceptions. I still assume
Murphy’s Law and this has saved me a number of times.
Still the Maasai have to face encroaching civilization.
The government is attempting to educate them and sometimes they
decide to leave their traditional life for “richer”
pursuits. Those that stay behind adapt some modern inventions, like
Day-Glo dyes and machine prints. It was strange to play checkers
with several Maasai warriors while eating chapatti, samosas and
drinking chai -- Indian food that has become the staple meal.
Still life is difficult. One day the environment
changed into a variation of the Australian outback and I ran out
of water and was wandering through the bush like a Maasai, rattling
mission church doors. Now, I am on the foot of Kilimanjaro. It has
been cloaked in clouds and I doubt I will see it before I leave.
I accept life’s suffering more easily these days and I am
poised to finish my life’s journey in a grand manner.
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