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Date:
January 10, 2002
Do Not Believe Everything You Hear
Hello !
I hope this message finds you all well. I am.
I received wonderful news in Honduras. My Ali is
coming to see me in Costa Rica. She flys in onthe19th.
I can not wait to she her. I have missed her very
much.
I have a surprise waiting for her. More on that in a
later e-mail.
I am writing from Liberia, Costa Rica. It is a mid
sized town located about 80km east of the Nicaragua n
border. I entered the country yesterday. The border
crossing became a hassle due to the crowds of people
and because I did not have a receipt stating that I
had my bike when I entered Nicaragua. The Nicaragua n
government requires this to help prevent bike theft.
It is very similar to registering your car in the
States. The inept border guard at the Honduran
Nicaraguan border did not supply me with the correct
documentation. Thankfully an English speaking local
helped me talk my way through to the Costa Rican
border.
Many people have asked me what has been my favorite
place or country. On this leg of my journey I would
have assumed the answer to be Costa Rica. It has been
the " carrot " that I have been anticipating since I
left Mexico. I thought Nicaragua would be a poor war
torn country that I needed to endure to reach Costa
Rica. I was very very wrong. The cities of Leon,
Granada and even Managua were pleasant surprises. The
Nicaraguans have been very friendly and on their
advice we have started camping again. The real gem has
been the Isla Ometepe. The island is what riding
around the world should be. There is virtually no
traffic, pollution or noise. The two volcanos that
formed the island are surrounded by stellar beaches
and banana plantations. There is hiking, swimming,
monkeys, birds, fruit falling off the trees and
genuinely friendly natives. I spent the last two
nights on the island camping on beaches where the cows
outnumber the humans. It was paradise.
One of the reasons Ometepe stays unspoiled is how you
get there. Boat is the only option. This is no
ordinary ferry boat.
I arrived in San Jorge and located the ferry office. I
purchased a ticket and boarded the ferry anticipating
the 10km crossing to the island. I secured my bike to
the railing on the upper level. Scott stayed above and
I went below with all but a few of the passengers. The
wind was howling outside. I considered reading or
sleeping as the crew cast off. A mere 30 meters from
the dock the front of the boat heaved into the air and
came crashing down. Water poured through the open
front door on the lower deck. Scott had different view
from above. He said, " I squealed like a little girl
when I saw the entire front of the boat go under
water. " The surf was soooo rough as the boat turned
into the wind that walking was impossible. The locals
laughed nervously and the " gringos " in the back of
the boat looked as worried as I felt. It was at this
moment I noticed the light shinning between the old
boat's sideboards. A gazed anxiously out the window
expecting to see my bike plunge into the sea. The
entire duration of the 45 minute ride I concentrated
on the horizon while other passengers became sick. I
was soooooo glad to get off that boat !
I celebrated New years in Granada, Nicaragua. The
hostels both had a party that spilled out into the
street. Fireworks were erupting everywhere. Cars and
pedestrians would light them as they passed. The air
was hazy with smoke and the pungent smell of
gunpowder. It was a festive evening.
I met a woman who rode her motorcycle from Canada to
Costa Rica. Her name is Jen. She was returning home
when I talked with her in Granada.She told me stories
of the police in Guatemala. She said they will stop
you for something as rediculous as driving with your
headlight on. Then they will inform you that you can
waste hours by going into the police station or you
can conveniently pay your fine in cash on the spot.
You then slip the "fine " under the windshield wiper
of the police car. You can‚t hand the money directly
to the officer because that would a bribe. Bribes are
illegal.
Central America is a small world. There is a beaten
path here.The travelers that normally venture here
explore the area for 3 to 6 months and then return
home. They navigate Central America with their Lonely
Planet or Let's Go travel books. As a result I
continually see the same people. After my nerve
racking boat ride to Ometepe I sat down in a
restaraunt. I peered out onto a street of an
Nicaraguan town that I have never seen. There is a man
waving to me ! I met him Granada. The restaraunt soon
filled with people I knew. Two days later on the other
side of the island I started to assemble my tent on
what I thought was an isolated beach. I talked with 5
people I knew before I could finish my tent.
From Liberia I intend to be in San Jose by the 16th. I
am unsure of my route. I still have the luxury of
extra time. I hope to do some camping in the National
Parks before venturing into the city.
I miss you all !
Please keep those messages coming.
Dennis
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