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Date:
January 29, 2002
Hello !
I hope this e-mail finds you all well.
I spent the last week and a half exploring Costa Rica
both on my own and with Ali. So What did I think ?
My first 3 days were filled with running errands . I
found a bike shop to maintenance and disassemble my
bike. I purchased an airline ticket for Quito,Ecuador.
My plane leaves either on the 31st or the 2nd. I will
know the exact date later today. By comparing airline
fares through a local travel agent I was able to
reduce the cost for my bike from an extra $100US to an
extra $25 US. The Internet is not always the best
place to buy tickets.
On the 19th my Ali K arrived. The "K" stand for
ketchup. She arrived late and had to pass through the
tight security at the airport. They do not allow
anyone other than a passenger into the terminal. Ali
had to pass through immigration, customs and exited
the airport before I could meet her. I felt like an
anxious father wishing I could have meet her at the
gate where her plane arrived.
San Jose is the closest I have come to a home since
my trip began. I am familiar with the bus schedules,
the street layout and the location of the shops and
stores. They also know me by name at The Costa Rican
Backpackers Hostel.
San Jose is also the travel hub for the country. All
the major bus routes pass through the city and the
international airport located close to town. Ali and I
used the very cheap and efficient bus system to
navigate the country. There is no need for a rental
car here. All you need is a few phrases in Spanish
that enables you to buy a bus ticket. A 200km bus ride
to the Pacific Coast cost less than $3 US.
The first town Ali and visited was Uvita. It is a
small town on the southern Pacific Coast that has some
stunning beaches. At low tide the beaches are a 1/4
mile width of golden sand that stretches from the rain
forest's border to the water's edge. There is also a
sand bar that allowed us to walk out to the tidal
pools of the nearby coral reef. The area is all part
of a protected marine sanctuary that draws
surprisingly few tourists.
After passing through San Jose again we ventured to
the Caribbean Coast. We stayed in the town of Puerto
Viejo close to the Panama border. We toured Cahuita
National Park where our hike through the rain forest
parallel a white sand beach. We spotted three
different types of monkeys. The highlight was the
female tree sloth carrying her baby. We could have
reached out and touched her but she was not
intimidated by our presence. We both laughed at how
incredibly slow she moved.
I was wishing for rain on some of the hot cycling
days. Well. My wish came true. Our last day on the
beach was rained out and that night the rain
continued.
My feeling on Costa Rica are mixed. Their National
Park system offers some amazing natural beauty.
Naturalist in Costa Rica curtailed the worse of the
destruction of their rain forests before it was too
late. The government has encouraged ecotourism and as
a result tourism is now Costa Rica's biggest industry.
It is an example to other countries of what they can
do with their natural resources. In the long run a
rain forest can generate far more revenue through
tourism that the "slash and burn " policy of turning
it into cattle pastor.
Where I was disappointed with Costa Rica was the
distinct lack of culture. In Central Mexico I could
sample the local foods sold by the venders who lined
the central plaza. The same central plaza in San Jose
is surrounded by McDonalds, Burger King and Pizza Hut.
There was a contrived Caribbean influence in Puerto
Viejo but it felt more like The Florida Keys than a
Caribbean island. The streets were full of gringos and
pizza shops. The huge influx of tourists have
overwhelmed what were once small communities. The more
experienced travelers are starting to go to Panama
where they say that the original culture still exists.
I am not saying do not go to Costa Rica. The National
parks are worth the trip. For me I find it too
commercial.
From here I fly to Quito. I bought the ticket out of
what I felt was the necessity to avoid Columbia and
the Darian Gap in southern Panama. I am very excited
about my trip through South America and I hope you all
come along for the ride.
I miss Ali.
More later,
Dennis
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