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Date:
August 14, 2002
Hello !
I hope this email finds you all well. I have been
asked many times how the historic floods in Europe
have effected my travels. Thank you for the concern
and other messages from home. There is a sadness to
this email for me. Many of the cities that I passed
through were under flood waters 24 hours later. Here
is my story.
My train ride from Munich to the lake village of Prien
was relaxing. Bathed in the sun's warmth I almost fell
asleep among the German businessmen. After
disembarking I circled Lake Chimesee and proceeded
towards Salzburg, Austria.
Salzburg is the city of Mozart. Statues and theaters
pay reverence to his life works. My favorite view was
from the north border of the Mirabell Gardens. My gaze
naturally followed the immaculate floral lined
pathways south to the Salzach River; over the spires
that jutted into the sky from the far bank and up to
the castle that dominates the hill above the city. It
seemed the gardens were constructed only for this
purpose.
I cycled north of Salzburg past the tourist choked
lakes of Kobernausser Forest. The hills were extra
torturous due to my heavy load. I carried 2 days worth
of food in anticipation of the closed grocery stores
the following day. That night I camped in a pine
forest so dense the afternoon sun could not penetrate
to the forest floor. Large hares and graceful fawns
scattered as the branches cracked beneath the wheels
of my bicycle. I was in heaven. Then it all changed.
I heard the light patter of rain on my tent in the
morning. It was a dreadful sound. The past evening I
listened to stories on the BBC about the flooding in
the Czech Republic to the north. The famous Budweis
brewery lost thousands of beer kegs to the rising
water. I wondered what happened when the locals find a
keg bobbing in the water. Do they return it full or do
they take a few day to empty it`s content ? I cycled
north to The Danube which was swollen to it's banks.
The rain increased in it`s intensity. I cycled east
along the German side of the river and then northeast
back into Austria. The clouds became more ominous and
I decided it wise to camp before the Czech border. I
hoped the rain would pass over during the night.
It poured for 14 hours. A drop of water from my
saturated rain cover struck my check at 6am. It
announced the futility of waiting any longer. I packed
in a downpour. The most dreadful part of this endeavor
is pulling on the wet cloths from the prior day's
ride.
After I repaired a flat in the haven of a bus shelter
I commenced what I believed to be a 50km ride to a
youth hostel in the Czech Republic. Initially it was
comical. I could not get any wetter. The warm sweet
air was reminiscent of playing in the rain as a child.
Pipes gushed. Gutters overflowed. The police directed
traffic around flooded roads. Manhole covers twirled
atop water that spewed from under ground. They
resembled bizzare fountains. Still the downpour
continued.
I asked a mailman how to get to the car ferry into the
Czech Republic. He directed me down a road. I pushed
my bike for 1 1/2 miles up a slope that was to steep
to ride. I coasted down the other side to a dead end.
There was only a locked gate and no car ferry. I
pushed my bike back up the hill and re-entered the
same town. It was no longer comical. The temperature
had dropped and the rain felt like needles against my
face.
When I walked into the town's tourist bureau I was a
pathetic site. I was drenched with a 3 day old beard
and wore a hat that drooped over my eyes. When I
looked down to survey my appearance a puddle of water
that had collected on my hat slashed to the floor. I
peered at the attendant with a sheepish smile. He
returned my smile and promptly found a room for me at
a local pension. It was still pouring.
After a hot shower, lunch and coffee I watched the
rain outside my window. ( I found out the next day
lunch was a gift from the hostess ) The radio reported
what I had seen was the worst flooding Austria had
endured in over 50 years. A fireman had drowned.
Villages were isolated and Salzburg had been declared
a disaster area.
The rain temporarily stopped and I made a dash for the
grocery store. I was determined to stay dry. I tried
to jog in a pair of clogs the hostess had lent me. All
I could manage was an awkward shuffle. The clogs kept
flying off my feet. My shoes were drying in the
basement. I returned in the same fashion while I
balanced all my purchases on my arms. I still forget
to take a plastic bag TO the supermarket. I am sure if
any of the locals saw me they would have wondered. I
returned to my window. It was raining again.
As I ate breakfast the next morning ominous clouds
blew past driven by a swift wind. The forecast was for
improving conditions. The statistics poured in from
the radio. One hundred thousand residents were
evacuated from the lowlands south of Prague. It was
their worst flood in 112 years. The rain fall amount
from the recent storm was the greatest amount ever
recorded since records have been kept.
I risked riding and when I arrived at the Austrian
border they were surprised to see me. At the Czech
immigration office he just shock his head. He spoke no
English. He swept his hand over the section of my map
south of Prague. In German he informed me all the
villages in this area are under water. He refused to
let me pass and returned to Austria. As I passed into
Austria the border guard leaned out the window and
suggested that I take my holiday in Austria. His words
may prove to be profound.
So here I sit struggling to learn a lesson in
patience. I am far from deprived. I am lodged in a
college dorm that is converted to a youth hostel for
the summer. The hostel is hosting a summer retreat for
families with autistic children. I have a huge private
room with bath and I can peck away on the Internet all
day for free. The village with all it's immenities is
a mere 5 minute walk.
I devised a plan over a huge breakfast. (which is also
included) Hmmmm... Maybe I should just stay here.
Hmmm.... Tomorrow I will ride the 6kms back to the
border. If I can pass I will be in Prague on the 18th.
If I can not I will be in Vienna on the 18th. I will
let god sort this one out.
My only disappointment has been my lack of contact
with native English speakers. Many Austrians speak
English but only in a broken manner. The conversations
only progress so far. I am surrounded by people but
long for meaningful social interaction.
I miss you all,
Dennis
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