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Date:
August 27, 2002
Hello All from Budapest !
I hope this email finds you all well.
Most of my time in Budapest has been spent deciding
what to do next. The last 300kms into the city were
dismal cycling. My interpretation of my Hungarian map
was for even worse cycling east of the city. On my
arrival the thought of a future cycling was a heavy
burden. I dealt with this feeling by ignoring my
future route for a few days. I settled into a hostel
and relaxed.
On Sunday I spread out my map of Europe on the floor
on my hostel's common room. An Italian traveler soon
approached and inquired where I was going. I told him
Istanbul but I do not know my path. For the next hour
he regaled me with his traveling experiences
throughout southern Europe. He was a godsend. I had a
plan and I was excited again.
Monday was a day of research. My biggest hurdle proved
to be the antiquated Hungarian mass transit system.
They do not allow bicycles on buses or trains. The
attendants suggestion was to bribe the conductor. I
envisioned myself showing up at the train station with
a bike that I was obviously not going to leave behind.
I would be at the mercy of the conductor. By day's end
I had circumnavigated their ridiculous system.
So where am I going ? First I feel the need to
elaborate with some European history. I do this for
the peace of mind of my family and friends who may not
be familiar with the regions past and present status.
Some of the towns on my itinerary may dredge up
unpleasant memories of grim CNN footage. I want to
assure you that my route has received the blessing of
other travelers, all the travel literature I could
locate and the US State Department. I feel this is a
safer and far more scenic route through countries with
an established tourist network.
So here goes. I am going to the Balkans. The Balkans
are notorious for conflict. The region's population is
comprised of distinctly different ethnic groups who
espouse opposing religious beliefs. Centuries of
ethnic hated have sparked wars. Until recently the
region was collectively ruled by the Soviet created
socialist state of Yugoslavia. It was ruled with an
iron fist by the communist dictator Tito who crushed
any internal unrest. Tito's death and the fall of the
Iron Curtain heralded the end of the former
Yugoslavia. Croatia and Slovenia were 2 of the former
Yugoslav republics that declared independence. The
tragic war and ethnic cleansing that followed was
broadcast worldwide. It was only American and EU
influence that brokered a peace agreement in the
mid-90's. Both Slovenia and Croatia are heavily
dependent on tourism and the war left their respective
economies in tatters. Recently The Adriatic Coast's
unsurpassed combination of history , natural beauty,
clean water and perfect climate is again attracting
western tourist. I am one of them.
So here is my itinerary in the form of a geography
lesson for my nieces, nephews and anybody else who
wants to follow along.
OK. First I want you to get into the character of a
bike tourist. Go put on a pair of smelly bike shorts
and have your mom or dad drive you around with the car
windows down. Stick your head out the window until you
have that "wind-blown" look and a few bugs in
your teeth. Stop it ! Bugs do not taste bad.
Now locate Budapest which is the capital of Hungary.
Here you board a train that travels west along the
Danube River to the City of Vienna which is the
capital of Austria. Then you board a second train
which travels southwest to the small Austrian city of
Klagenfurt where you disembark. Next you ride your
bike south over a mountain pass into Slovenia. In the
resort town of Blad you swim in the Alpine lakes in
the shadows of the Julian Alps. Refreshed ,you ride
south through the lush Soca River Valley to the
Italian coastal town of Triste. After buying a cheap
pair of shorts and sandals you continue south along
the coast back into Slovenia and onward to Croatian
town of Pula. A slow ferry then takes you south
through the islands of the Adriatic Sea to the town of
Zadar where you journey southward by bike to Split.
Now via ferries and bike you hop island with vineyards
and remote beaches. Finally youreturn to the coastal
road where you finish this section of your trip in
Dubrovnik.
During this 3 week time period you will stay in
seaside campground and private pensions while you
enjoy the excellent September weather and lack of
other tourist. YEEEEEW HAAAAW !! Can not wait to get
started. I leave tomorrow for Vienna where I will
reunite with Scott.
My feelings on Budapest are mixed. This was obviously
once a center of great wealth. What is just as
aperrant is the neglect the cities architecture and
infrastructure has suffered under communism. I do have
hope. Construction sites and restoration projects
abound. Hungary's anticipated entrance into the EU
should effuse some badly needed investment into the
local economy. I would love to visit this city again
in 10 years when I hope that it will live up to it's
potential as " The Paris of the East ".
So I say goodbye for now. I am unsure of the Internet
resources available in Slovenia. If you do not hear
from me know that is not a result of a lack of desire.
It is the result of a lack of a modem.
I miss you all,
Dennis
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