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Date:
September 11, 2002
I hope this email finds you all well.
If you have a good map of Europe you will find Zadar
on the western shore of The Adriatic Sea directly west
of Sarajevo, Bosnia. Yesterday I arrived on the
midnight ferry from the city of Pula.
It is difficult for me to fathom the Yugoslav rockets
that bombarded Zadar 10 years ago and the 3 month
siege that followed. Before me is the circular shape
of the 9th century Byzantine church of Saint Duratus.
The vendors that line the plaza sell everything form
sunglasses to tattoos. The clinking of dishes from the
sidewalk cafes echoes off the stone streets that have
been polished to a glassy surface from centuries of
foot traffic. Casually dressed tourist from Italy,
Germany and Belgium stroll past. An American is a rare
sight. There is no evidence of the recent war that
ended in 1995. How could the peaceful shoreline that I
witnessed from the ferry ever be the center of a
conflict ?
Scott and I reunited in Vienna. We celebrated his
B-day with pizza and beer. I have enjoyed traveling
with the self-tittle d, more positive, "New"
Scott.I believe that we have both benefitted from our
2 month separation. After some of the more intense
lonely moment of traveling alone I have a greater
appreciation for the company of a friend.
From Klagenfurt, Austria I cycled over an arduous
mountain pass to the Slovenian border. Scott seemed
disappointed when border guard waved him past. He felt
the effort of the climb deserved a stamp in his
passport. The next few days I camped in the Alpine
region of Slovenia. I was in awe of the area,s beauty.
The 8000ft peaks of the Julian Alps dominated the
horizon above cliff side castles, pine forest and
church steeples. In Lake Bled I swam with the ducks in
the cool glacial water while Saint Mary,s church bell
announced the noon mass. Later as I sat on the beach
and absorbed the view I just smiled. I so wish that
you could have shared this with me. If you have travel
plans book your ticket to Slovenia. In May and
September the weather is perfect and the tourists are
at home.
The topless and nude beaches of Slovenia and Croatia
have shattered my stereotype of matronly,
conservatively dressed Eastern Bloc women. I tried to
be sophisticated during my first visit to my
campground,s topless beach. I arrived for a swim
complete with my "farmer" tan. ( A farmer tan
abruptly transforms from a golden brown to a corpse
white half way up the bicep) So. I tried not to stare
but I did. Oh! She caught me. I pretended to tune my
radio. Her half naked form had the same allure as a
traffic accident. I could not resist a second glance.
Ah ! She caught me again ! I am working on getting rid
of that farmer tan.
I feel my future travels may be effected by US foreign
policy. I have met many Europeans who are baffled by
the possibility of a military strike on Iraq. They ask
me, "Why ?". I followed the developments
closely on the BBC and consider myself informed. I
still have no answer to their question. Overseas
America is perceived as a bunch of trigger happy
Texans. I believe that if we attach Iraq we will only
incite and support the Muslim extremists who are a
tiny minority within the Islamic faith. I hope and
pray that as a nation we embrace a foreign policy that
does not rely on war. Can anyone help me with this ?
I am constantly amazed to the extent that American
culture has permeated the world. In Northern Slovenia
I was camped in a pine forest complete with a mountain
steam and a goat herder. As I ate breakfast I searched
the radio for local music. What was broadcasting ? The
Village People singing "YMCA" followed by
Sonny and Cher,s "I Got You Babe"?! Later that
same day as I sunbathed by a glacial lake a DJ blasted
music form The International Air-Cooled VW Car Show
that occupied the adjacent lot. I heard Elvis Presley,
The Mavericks, Rufus Wainwright, Pink Floyd, Cindi
Laupert,The Clash, The Ramones, Queen, Hank Williams
Sr., etc. The car show consisted of men dressed in
leather who drank beer while they walked among Harley
Davidson motorcycles. It was reminiscent to being in
the States during Labor Day Weekend. Whether I espouse
the image my country exports is secondary to it,s
obvious international appeal.
I have eclipsed some milestones on my trip. On
September 6th I celebrated a year on the road and I
surpassed the 10000 miles of cycling. I mention these
number only in passing. Their significance to me has
waned. I had a profound moment recently. I was sitting
on a cement dock on the Adriatic coast of Slovenia. I
watched the sun,s slow descent that culminated in a
stunning display of color. An Italian radio station
played Miles Davis on a warm evening. To the south I
could glympse my future in the Croatian coastline that
jutted out to the wast. All I felt at that instance
was serenity and a sense of accomplishment. Where I
had been or where I would be had no meaning. My
persistence and mistakes had brought me to this
moment. I could not attribute my sentiment to any
particularly inspiring incident or person. My mindset
was the result of my collective travels. I had applied
the lessons that I learned form my past poor judgment
and as result life was grand. In fact it was more that
grand. I felt a love for everything around me that I
have rarely experienced in life.
I miss you all,
Dennis
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