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Date: September 30, 2002
The record-breaking rains and floods have followed us
to Greece. In the midst of a torrential thunderstorm
the spokes on Dennis' wheel began to rip out of the
rim until his wheel resembled the shape of a potatoe
chip and made noise like popping corn. Frustrated,
Dennis dumped his bike against the side of a metal bus
shelter and hid from the rain. I joined him and we
watched the cascading rain turn the streets into foam.
The shack began to leak and Dennis didn't even have
the motivation to move his foot out of the way. The
lightening flashed and nearly simulataneously the
thunder cracked. I eyed the sheet metal shack
nervously and began to contemplated running across the
street to hide in the cement shrine to the Virgin
Mary, wondering if I had enough cookies to keep my
stomach happy until tomorrow.
The fire department passed several times with large
vehicles to remove a fallen tree from atop two cars.
Unbeknownst to us, the boss was a bicyclist and he
ordered, "It is raining too hard for those bicyclists.
You must go get them. But don't tell me that you are
going to do it."
Soon two beautiful people, Arana and Ladas, threw our
bikes in the fire truck and drove us to the station.
They seated us in front of the heaters and soon the
steam from our clothes mixed with the steam of our
coffee. The hospitality of our friends expanded to a
ride to Ioanina where there was a cheap hotel and a
bicycle store. Once we were situated, showered and dry
our friends returned to show us the city and treat us
to dinner and drinks: marinated lambs tongue, spicy
beef, octopus, several cheese dishes and local drinks.
And for desert, baklava so sweet and juicy, eating it
was like diving into a beehive. And, the next day our
friends brought us several bottles of homemade,
sweety, fruity wine which tasted wonderful after
carrying them over a 1700 meter pass.
After talking about the politics of cyprus with one
fireman -- politics are often the litmus test for
friendship -- he bragged that Greece has the best
food, wine, music and women in the world. After our
night out I believe him. Paradoxically, I think the
same about many countries. Comparing cultures is like
comparing apples to oranges, or peas to carrots, even,
apples to apples. There are the rotten apples like:
St. Louis, Las Angelas, Mazatlan, Guatemala, El
Salvador, Hungary, Lima, Quito, even Amsterdam during
tourist season. Of course, every country or city has
it jewels. For instance, many people love Guatemala
based upon visiting Tikal, Antigua and Lago Atitlan.
However, these people don't see the misery, pollution
and racism in between as I do. Then there are the
tasteless cultures that leave me feeling, quite
literally, malnourished, like: the Midwest, Panama,
Uruguay, The Czech Republic and Croatia. Then there
are the places I love: the West Coast of the USA,
Central Mexico, parts of Costa Rica, Bolivia,
Argentina, Ireland, Scotland, London, Berlin, and, of
course, Greece. (These are just a few examples. This
internet access is crap and i don't have time to think
or correct my errors.) Just as all bad countries have
good places, all good countries have their s-holes and
I recommend you never visit: ports, including taking a
cruise ship, industrial cities, highways or tourist
traps.
Our Greek hosts, Ladas, Golias, Maria and their twins,
showed us a very good time and I am grateful for them
educating us in the culture of Greece. People like
these are why I travel. The twins were the cutest kids
in the world and, provided they had two cookies, they
would always give me one. Upon parting, Golias, the
boss, who took the lead and was an inspiration to all,
beat me to the good-byes and thank-yous. "You are very
brave men."
"No, I have done nothing," I say. I don't feel brave.
In fact, I got run off the road today, nearly crashing
into the gravel at 35KPH. I felt no fear. What I mean
is I feel more like a fool these last few months than
anything. What is the difference between a fool, a
coward and a brave man? I continue, "It is you who I
should thank...."
"No, no, no, it is you who have brought the world to
us. Thank you."
And, I realized it is a humble, confident and generous person that can accept
a compliment. "You are welcome. I hope to see you again, my friends."
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