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Date:
October 01, 2002
Hello from Kastraki, Greece
I hope that this email finds you all well.
Kastraki is a tiny town located in the central part of
mainland Greece. It's claim to fame are the
monastaries of Meteora. The world famous site was used
in one of the James Bond films.
The 225kms from the coast delivered some spectacular
scenery, challenging climbs and severe weather. The
combination was too much for my creaky back rim. It's
failure turned into one of the most enduring memories
of my trip.
I was camped one day out of Igoulmenitsa. The trucks
from the nearby highway and an annoying sheep herder's
dog had interupted my sleep. Dark clouds alternated
with blue sky. My goal for the day was to ride the
60kms into Ioannina where I would take the next day
off. I coasted into the first town where I huddled
under the roof of a gas station as a light shower
passed. The weather improved and I contiuned towards
Ioannina. Five Kms later my back wheel began to wobble
badly. I pulled out my tool kit and tried to tighten
the spokes. The downpour of rain began. I fled to a
tiny shed that doubles as a bus stop. Scott joined me.
There I sat dejectedly in a tin shed, under a tree in
the midst of a severe thunderstorm. My bike was
unrideable. I watched it rain. The leaky roof dripped
on my shoe. I lacked the ambition to move my foot
inches in either direction. The rain water soaked into
my shoe. A city bus slowed. He saw my bike and
accelerated. I watched it rain. Scott offered to
repair my wheel. The cold air that swirled in the
shelter penetrated my drenched clothing. I watched in
rain and shivered. An orange truck with a bucket lift
appeared and backed up before it disappeared down an
adjacent side road. Scott gave up on my wheel. I
watched it rain.
A brown truck with an official symbol on the front
door completed a Uturn and stopped in front of our
shelter. Ladas and Vania stepped out and offered me a
ride to the fire station. They helped me to load our
bikes and drove me into the next small town. At the
fire station I hung my clothes by the heater. Over
coffee I was introduced to the rest of the crew who
where very impressed by my travels. It turns out Ladas
and Vania's boss Golias was a passanger in the orange
truck that passed my shelter. They were responding to
a tree that had fallen across 2 cars. Golias who is a
cyclist felt compassion for me and sent a truck to my
rescue. After a group photo Ladas and Golias packed
all of my gear into Ladas' small sedan and Ladas drove
me to his hometown of Ioannina. He delivered me to a
hotel and Ladas and Golias helped me carry my gear
upstairs. To show my appreciation I offered to buy
them dinner and drinks. They promised to return that
evening.
The rain thundered down that evening. In such horrible
weather I could not have blamed my new friends for
staying home. They arrived only a few minutes late.
Ladas, Golias and his wife Maria took me to a few of
their favorite places. The last stop was a crowded
local Greek restaraunt where they ordered various
Greek dishes. I sampled marinated pork and beef,
octopus, fried cheese pies and lamb's tounge. It was
the best meal I had in months and they would not let
me pay for anything. They only requested the same
hospitality if they ever visit me in the States.
The next night they escorted me to the ruins of a
Turkish fort that overlooks the lake. I also had the
oppurtunity to meet Golias' and Maria's adorable twin
15 month old daughters. Ladas bought me coffee at the
outdoor cafe. In Greece on your birthday or after
receiving good news you treat your friends. Ladas had
gotten a new job as a driving instructor. The evening
culminated with baclava saturated in honey. The best I
have ever had.
It has been a very refreshing change since my arrival
in Greece. From passing cars I receive energetic
waves, thumbs up and shouts of encouragement. A sheep
herder ran by my side and shouted enthusiasticaly in
Greek. I assumed it was something positive due to the
broad, semi-toothless grin that stretched across his
face. I have not seen these gestures of support since
Argentina. Give me a room full of Greeks ar Latins any
day.
In Greece they do not say, " It is all Greek to me. ".
They say, " It is all Chinese to me.".
I toured the monastaries at Meteora. There were
originally 24 monastaries atop the rock columns north
of the town of Kalambaca. Great Meteora, which is the
largest of the 5 remaining structures, recently
celebrated it's 600th anniversary. The intricate
religous paintings that cover the chapel walls,
glourios panaramic views and monastic chants echoing
through the passageways inspired me to master the art
of meditation when I return home. The views from the
one of the many terraces were reminiscent of Machu
Picchu on a less grandiose scale. Still what a view !
I continue to battle horrible weather. With the
exception of Croatia the rain has been incessant since
my arrival in London. In Greece the tourist industry
has suffered from the lack of normal sunny warm summer
weather. The other day after a day and a half of rain
I lost the mental battle. I stomped out of my tent and
announced that I was buying a train ticket to Athens.
Then....get this.... are you ready in.... in the midst
of a rain shower I trudged to the bathroom and took
and shower !? When I left the shower house the sun was
shining. I felt like an idiot.
One week to Athens baby !!
I miss you all,
Dennis
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