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Date:
October 10, 2002
Hello from Athens, Greece !
I hope this email finds you all well.
I am reclined on a worn cloth chair that occupies the
corner of my hostel's lobby. Across the room my very
odd Australian room mate is meticulously slicing his
banana. He never seems to venture beyond the front
door of the hostel. My bus to Istanbul departs in 4
and one half hours. I have completed all my errands
and packing. I find myself with some time to kill.
My ride south from Meteora through central Greece was
without incident. The flat cotton fields that
surrounded economically depressed towns were far from
memorable. It was north of Delphi that the mountains
returned and I again enjoyed the spectacular views
that I associate with my time in Greece.
When I arrived in Delphi I knew it was at an end. One
year and 27 days, 17,299kms and 31 countries after
leaving San Francisco my bike trip had come to an end.
From my campsite at the outskirts of town I viewed the
mountain ridge lines that extended to the sea. Nestled
between the grey and brown peaks was a vast olive
grove. Trails of smoke emanated from the trees in the
distant valley. The farmers were harvesting their
crop. A melodic chorus of goat bells reverberated from
a nearby hill. There was no reason to go any farther.
After a few days of rest I loaded " The Old Girl
" onto a bus bound for Athens.
Athens has been overwhelming. The city abounds with
ugly cement buildings, traffic and a cacaphony of
noise. Greece was ruled by a military dictator until
the mid-70's. During this era the military elite were
allowed to build any structure anywhere they desired.
The lack of urban planning is very evident in Athen's
unattractive appearance. In the midst of this the the
" Beautiful Monster" is preparing to host the
2004 Olympics. The main streets are being upgraded and
a recently completed underground metro system should
help alleviate the yellow haze of smog that often
blankets the city. Dublin has achieved a resurgence as
a result of EU investment. Maybe Athens can do the
same.
For me Athens has been a city of transition. I have
abandoned the responsibilities of bicycle touring and
embraced the life of a " normal " traveler. My
bicycle is in a box and I have traded my panniers for
a duffle bag. Gone are the bus fumes, flat tires,
broken spokes and searching for shelter from the rain.
Also lost are the remote campsites and the
opportunities to meet locals who rarely encounter a
tourist. The change is bittersweet.
On to Istanbul !
See you soon,
Dennis
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