|
Date:
March 23, 2002
Hello form La Paz Bolivia !
I hope this email finds you all well. I arrived in La
Paz on the 21st after a two day ride from Copacabana.
I want to thank you for numerous the responses I to my
request for advice. I have decided to enjoy my next
two months as I cycle to Buenos Aires. The answer to
the duration of my trip will come in time.
My ride south has followed the Altiplano which is a
vast plain that stretches from north of Lake Titicaca
through most of western Bolivia. The altitude on this
plateau varies from 12000 to 14000 feet above sea
level. ( Hence the name high plane ) The climate and
the scenery tends to be either harsh or stellar. My
morning ride out of the town of Juli was stressful.
The heavy 45 degrees rain penetrated all of my rain
gear and saturated my clothing. By noon the sun
appeared and it‚s warmth soon brought back flexibility
to my fingers. By afternoon perfect riding conditions
followed me into Copacabana.
I have finally acclimated to the altitude. In the
past carrying my bike or gear up a flight of steps
would leave me winded. I also experienced some
irregular breathing and an elevated heart rate that
disturbed my sleep. What annoyed me was Thorstien. I
was hiking on Isla de la Sol. A brief shower was
coming to an end as I came to the top of a ridge. I
was slightly lightheaded from my effort and a I felt a
damp chill under my coat. Then I saw Thorstien who is
from Scotland. He stood on the trail in shorts and
sandals. He said hello as he drew deeply on his
cigarette. During the 10 minute conversation that
followed he lit a second cigarette. I am biking around
the world and this guy is chain smoking around the
world ! How does he do it !?
The borders in South America have been a peaceful
affair. Absent are the long lines, useless forms and
fees that plagued the borders in Central America. I
was greeted at the Bolivian border by polite smiles
and music. I was so relaxed I almost felt like staying
for a few hours. I still have not had a bag searched
at any border crossing.
The highlight of my last week was my hike on Isla de
la Sol. The vistas from the ridge that encompasses the
center of the island were phenomenal. The Incas
believed that the sun was created here. The remnants
of three of their temples still remain. Worshipers
would arrive at the temple located on the southern end
of the island. They would remove their shoes and walk
barefoot to the second temple. Then in an attempt to
show their devotion they would crawl the last 3km of
rocky trail to the temple of the sun on the northern
end of the island. Ruins of the temple, a sacrificial
table and a sun calender overlook Lake Titicaca from a
commanding heigth.
I met a man named Walter in Juliaca. He walked across
the plaza and asked if he could polish my muddy bike
shoes. We continued to discuss my trip as my tent
dried in the intense midday sun. I saw Walter again
the next evening in Puno. He was now a crumpled heap
of limbs on the sidewalk. The sign placed next to him
claimed that due to an accident Walter could not walk.
I approached and said hello. Walter could only manage
a sheepish grin.
Walter is indicative of one of the ongoing
frustrations of my trip. Boys dash to the edge of the
road and ask for plata. ( Silver ) Men and woman ask
for money if I what to take a picture of a llama that
is grazing in an open field and the crippled and the
blind sit on street corners with their hat in hand.
The perception that westerners have bottomless pockets
makes me an obvious choice for these advances. I want
to give them money and I do give them food. I can see
and feel the poverty. Walter's situation leaves me to
wonder. If I give money am I helping or contributing
to a social ill ? Either way I feel guilty as I pass.
My second around the world trip begins on May 23rd. I
will fly from Buenos Aires, Argentina to Santiago,
Chile to New York City to Baltimore. I am looking
forward to 24 hours on airplane and in airports. This
round trip airfare costs $650 less than a more direct
one-way flight through Miami. Does anybody understand
the airline industry ? Again I found this fare through
a travel agent. The Internet quote was twice the
price. If everything goes well I will be in Baltimore
, Maryland on or around noon on the the 24th of May. I
will be staying at my friends Karen's house in
Lancaster while I am home. Thank you Karen.
From La Paz I will take a bus to the dusty town of
Uyuni in southwestern Bolivia. From this town there
are 4 day tours available to the Solar de Uyuni which
are suppose to be awesome. I am very excited about my
upcoming tour and being chaueffered around for 4 days.
After Uyuni I will cycle north through Potosi and
Sucre before turning south towards Buenos Aires.
I miss you all !
Dennis
|
