San Pedro, Guatemala
Date: December 12, 2001

Hello !

I hope this e-mail finds you all well.

I am in the town of San Pedro which is located on the shore of Lake Atitlan. I write this as the sun burns the early morning fog off the lake surface. A local fisherman just finished asking me a few friendly questions and one of the local dogs is staring intently at my breakfast. The lake is bordered on the west by extinct volcanos that tower above 11000 feet. This Central Highland community located about 100km west of the capital city Guatemala supports a small tourist enclave. Access to the Internet and American food seems to coexist with the rural Guatemalan town. Five days ago I did not know this place existed. Circumstances and individuals guided me here. Now I feel fortunate to have " discovered " it.

I have either loved or hated Guatemala. I can not seem to find a happy medium since I crossed the border. My first night in the country I stayed in the border town of La Messila. The town was full of activity with an underlying feel of desperation that seems to transcend most border towns. I hated it. The next days ride included scenery that rivals anything I have ever seen. I loved it. By afternoon it became evident that the lunatic bus drivers did not want us on the road. They would blow their air horns as they passed. The buses belched so much pollution that I could see, feel, taste and smell the fumes. I hated it. That night after a long days ride I healed my wounded spirit with cable TV and a Domino's pizza. I loved it again. You get the idea.

I have received a few warnings about Guatemala. The camping I enjoyed in Mexico is not safe here. Robbery after dark is a major risk. Without the luxury of camping I feel like I am running from hotel to hotel no matter what the distance. I also received advice on food from Felipe and Humberto. ( two locals I met in La Messila ) They claim the hamburgers are made from horse meat. Carne asado ( roasted meat ) is probably dog. Choanman ( sp ? ) is the local dish made from rat but the chicken is OK. Thank god I like chicken.

A misprint on my map has made a huge difference . The distance from Mexican / Guatemalan border to San Jose , Costa Rica is 1500kms. Not the 1500 miles I anticipated. This translates into two extra weeks of time. I entertained the idea of cycling through Costa Rica into Panama and then returning to San Jose. The 9000ft and 10000ft passes of Guatemala quickly changed my mind. Now all I want is to spend the extra days in places like San Pedro.

Guatemala has been surprising to me. I expected banana trees, howling monkeys, hot days and dirt roads. What I have found in the Highlands are warm days, cool nights, pine forest, paved roads and modern conveniences in the larger towns. The power outages can be frustrating. They seem to occur almost daily and can last most of the day.

In Guatemala I am never alone. If I stop by the side of the road people seem to materialize from nowhere. They climb the steep bank that borders the road, get off a bus or shout "gringo" from the top of a hill. I assume the term gringo which I find offensive is used more out of ignorance that prejudice. Many time I fight the desire to go correct them.

Poverty is more evident here. Scott and I stopped fore lunch in the town of Nahuala. We sat down at the central plaza and started to eat. Suddenly 5 of the local drunks descended on us. They all wanted my money and to be my friend. I finally stood up, turned the one guy around and pushed him away. I felt like an obnoxious foreigner and regretted touching his filthy clothing. The chilrend are also drawn to me. They have probably never seen anything resembling my bike, bags or clothing. They often touch me or my bike with a dumb look of awe of their faces. These experiences have left both Scott and I wondering about our itinerary. I still envision myself reaching Argentina and cycling Europe. What then ? Do I go to India where being mobbed by curious locals is common ? As an American I value my personal space.

I hope I have not been too long winded. It is important to me to share my journey with the ones I love.

I miss you all !

Dennis