Hello from Selcuk, Turkey !
Date: November 6, 2002

I hope this email finds you all well.

I am seated at an outdoor cafe. At the adjacent tables are elderly Turkish men who are discussing what I assume is the results of yesterdays national elections. Their leathery sun darkened skin is evidence of a hard life and their clothing speaks off a bygone era. The waiter just delivered my glass of cay.(Turkish tea) On the street passing tourist wearing shorts and backpacks are a striking contrast to this small farming community. These two worlds are drawn together by Turkey,s rich and complex history and an economic need for tourism.

Since my last email I have returned to Istanbul where I met my friend Evelynn who arrived from the States. Together we ventured to Cappadocia in Central Turkey and now I am back on the SW coastal town of Selcuk. Tonight we endure one last dreaded overnight bus ride back to Istanbul. I return home on the 9th of November.

Selcuk is renown for the nearby impressive ruins of the ancient city of Ephesus. As capital of Roman Asia and a large port Ephesus accumulated wealth and splendor after 129BC. With more than 250000 inhabitants only Rome and Alexandria boasted larger populations. It,s reputation for religious tolerance and learning drew people of various ideologies. Early Christians seeking safe haven in Ephesus before fleeing east from Roman persecution. Both The Virgin Mary and St. John are buried close by. The Greeks, Romans, Persians, Alexander The Great and Byzantine all took turns ruling Ephesus before it,s demise from a massive malaria epidemic in the 6th century AD. Today it is Turkey,s most popular tourist destination.

I also had the opportunity to explore the Cappadocia region of Central Turkey. It is an area of both surreal natural beauty and fascinating underground cities which were constructed for protection from invading armies. While in Cappadocia I stayed in the small town of Goreme. Only 10 years ago it was an isolated dusty village. Now over 60 hotels and pensions dominate the town. What is unique about Goreme is it,s ability to remain a quaint and exceedingly friendly and warm community despite the influx of tourism. Many of the hotels utilize the caves that until recently were occupied by the local inhabitants. There is also lodging available in the local rock monoliths known as Fairy Chimneys. The striking formations are the product of wind and water erosion and many are topped with boulders. The resulting profile strongly resembles...........

.
.
.
Well
.
.
.
a large penis. Thus the name Love Valley which is a popular local hiking trail for tourist. Pictures to follow:~)

While in Goreme I took a day trip south to the town of Derimkuyu. The site of an underground city that was part of an extensive network of underground communities. In the 5th century BC the cities which were hewn from the soft rock consisted of only one level. Between the 1st and 4th century AD Christians fleeing Roman persecution expanded the rudimentary housing into communities that reached depths of more than 150 feet. In a time of crisis up to 10000 people could survive for a month without the need to surface. The engineering involved was a testament to the innate human desire to prevail.

The city I visited was not unique. The standard design had many innovative aspects. The tunnel that allowed entrance from the surface was low and narrow. This inhibited the mobility of a Roman solder in full battle gear. There were 52 hiden ventilation shafts. It was impossible to cut off the city,s fresh air supply. The underground water source was impossible to poison. The natural cool environment was ideal for food storage. There were courtrooms, schools. churches and even a morge. Human and animal waste was stored in large clay pots. Tunnels with narrow entrance allowed children to escape pursuing solders. My favorite was the central heating system available to the privileged. No fires were allowed. The heat source was the respiration of a donkey. I would prefer to be cold. Thank you very much.

I have been asked," Why are you going to Turkey ? Isn,t it dangerous for Americans ?". I can only relate my own experiences to this question. Beyond the impressive archaeological sites, stunning beaches and delicious food Turkey,s real treasure is the people. I have received no monumental acts of kindness. It has been the "little things". The bright smiles, handshakes, the gifts of food, tea and coffee and the unrequested advice that have made me feel welcomed. I have strolled down the back streets of Istanbul and never felt threatened. I can not say this about my home town of Lancaster. Ironically, when I announce my nationality the Turks are very pleased that I am an American. They ask me, " Why are Americans afraid of Turkey ?". I have no answer for them. Turkey rely s on the tourist industry and the lack of American travelers has hurt their economy. In the past year I have passed through many countries that might be deemed " dangerous" for travel. My experiences has consistently been that when people of different nationalities get together they get along much better than their respected governments. So now I challenge you to come see for yourself.

I miss you all,

Dennis